Living in Sydney

"We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails."
- Unknown

This page is devoted to living in Sydney - on the shores of the ocean overlooking beautifully Bondi Beach. The sights, the sounds, and the atmosphere of a city many call paradise... and rightly so.

Sydney Trips Go here if you want to:

Sydney Sites Particular images and other sights around Sydney that aren't included elsewhere including:

Australia A-Z What are some of the most memorable moments during the transfer?

"Every man dies. Not every man really lives."
-William Wallace (Braveheart)

Everyone seems to thing that Australia is a small little place and to "just go up to the Reef" from Sydney would be a nice weekend trip. (I thought that too at one point.) The map below, overlaid on the US map (same scale) puts things in a bit more perspective. You can see Sydney near Tampa Bay and the Reef somewhere near the Toronto/Detroit area and Ayers rock right next to Denver. And remember - all this land - and only 18 million people!

Australia Map1

A few things to get used to if you want to live in Sydney:
Taxis

If you're a single male, you'll be expected to sit up in the front with the taxi driver. Many of them will engage in conversation - more so than their American counterparts - but may be more interested in learning about you than sharing their views on the end of the world. And you'll hopefully share directions with them too: unless you're going to a well known landmark or street, expect to be able to help guide them. You're not expected to tip them - at all. Drivers will begin searching for ten cents change unless you tell them otherwise. And, like the rest of Australia, all taxis accept all credit cards. There are also a lot of taxis to be found - something close to 4,400 fill the city so you'll never really have a hard time finding one. That said, however, I don't think you'll find anyone who would rather have a Sydney cabbie than a more trusty Chicago cabbie.

U2 TicketA small group of Bainies got last minute tickets to the U2 Concert (Thanks Cunjak!) and we found ourselves in the second row, standing not more than ten feet from Bono and The Edge as rain poured down around us. The vantage point was much better than the one I had in Soldier Field the summer before (Quite possibly the farthest from the stage without being outside), and Bono didn't let me down: Every U2 concert I've ever been to he brings a (too) young girl on the stage to serenade With or Without You.


Bottle Shops
You can only buy alcohol - of any kind - in a licensed "bottle shop." Furthermore, since many restaurants are BYO (Bring your own liquor), bottle shops can easily be found near restaurants to find a nice bottle of wine on your way to dinner. You can also stop by on your way to your mate's just to pick up a stubby (single bottle) or a whole slab (case) of beer. If you're in a hurry, check out the drive-ins.
That Whole "Left" Thing
Driving on the left side of the street. Really doesn't matter once you get used to it. Just make sure to look right when beginning to cross the street!
Weekends
Something this country takes very seriously. Work is for the week, the weekend is for family, friends, and sport. For more on the weekends, see Sydney Trips.

Sailing from Rose Bay with Scott
and Camille Crawford,
my Bain buds one relaxing Saturday afternoon.

Vocabulary
"No worries:" My personal favorite. Probably the inspiration to the Lion King's "Hakuna Matata." The phrase is used almost constantly here but is best translated as "ok," "not a problem," "I don't mind at all," etc. For example a shop clerk saying, "I'll be with you in a tick," would warrant a "No worries." Or "Can I call you back?" "No worries."
"How are you going?:" The same thing as "How are you doing" or "What's up?" If you think about it, makes just as much sense.
"Mate:" Not to be used as a tourist slogan. Only a male to male salutation, but not used all the time. Basically a replacement for "friend," or "buddy." For example, "I had a big night the other weekend with my mates." But you wouldn't necessarily say a random man is a mate - he would just be a bloke.
"Heeps:" Lots.
"Cheers:" Synonymous with both hello and goodbye - the universal salutation.
"Good on'ya:" Similar to a "Bless you," but more general and not when you sneeze. Almost like a "You go boy" or a "Oh - congrats" or simply a way to wish someone well.
"A few ticks:" A few minutes. For example, "I'll be with you in a few ticks."
"'Avro:" Afternoon (usually this afternoon). For example, "What do you have on this 'avro?"
"Ta:" Thanks. An informal thank you, for example if someone holds the door for you, gives you a water refill, or drops off copies at the office.
"I reckon:" I think. In my opinion, of course! Otherwise you wouldn't say it, right?
And to put it all together:
"Oh, hello Stenning. How are you going today?"
"I'm going fine thank you. Did you see the Footy last night?"
"Ya, what a shocker - I was there! The Swans barely pulled it off on that last try."
"You had tickets?"
"Ya."
"Good on'ya. Well, I've got to run - I've got a meeting with my manager this 'avro."
"No worries."
"Cheers."
"Cheers."
Or a real conversation at the local bottle shop recently:
"Could I get a six pack of VB?"
"No worries... Ten-fifty."
"Cheers."
"Good on'ya mate."
"Ta."
Footy

Refers mostly to Australian Rules Football, but also covers Rugby League and Rugby Union. Footy, above all else, IS the national past-time. I've become a big fan. While originally rather complex - as all three sports look relatively alike but each have distinct rules - it's really a fun game to watch as the action is constant and the athleticism is spectacular. There are countless different teams fighting for the spoils and each fills every newscast and newspaper. Sydney Swans
Catching a footy game in August.

Sport in General
In fact, sports - not merely the Footy - in general dominate the media. The sports segment of the news - every night - is as long as the rest of the news itself. It doesn't really seem to matter what the sport is, as long as there's something to watch and preferable something that looks painful. (Notable exception being the Australian swimmer that swam from Mexico to Cuba) But sports - cricket, World Cup soccer (Congrats to France!), horse racing, American basketball, sailing, swimming, American football ("The Grid Iron"), field hockey, net ball (a weak excuse for basketball) - will be the topic du jour basically every jour. Many people follow their teams religiously and attend games at local stadiums or fields as often and frequently as possible. Our Olympic tour guide quipped, "You'd have 50,000 blokes show up for a game of marbles in Melbourne." To take care of this addiction, the government has gracefully condoned betting - and actually runs TAB in many establishments and bars. It's going to market in a public offering soon, so if you're interested...
The Tele & Advertisements
Television. All four channels! Usually showing sports (cricket, footy, lawn bowling, swimming, soccer...) or American television shows. Seinfeld, for reasons still unknown to me, is HUGE here. It's all people talk about. And everyone assumes that all Americans somehow knew the finale well ahead of time. (Most shows are delayed a few months before they get here) But there are a number of gems the states don't get, like locally produced soaps (Including Breakers, a good excuse to have a lot of attractive Australians filmed in the Bondi Beach area), and Fast Forward's Funniest Moments, probably one of the most consistently funny shows on television (A series of short comedy sketches).
And advertisements are a bit more liberal here. A lot more random sarcasm (One of my favorites included a family of anatomically correct stick figures with one driving a bus load of Japanese tourists through Sydney) and sexual innuendo.
Even billboards take the lead. A particularly interesting one is filled with "Don't let a little prick spoil your day." Next to that is a cartoon of a woman snagging her nylon on a chair.
Public safety messages continue the trend. The drunk driving and child abuse ones are particularly shocking. They even have ads about not driving when you're too tired. And the warnings on cigarettes are probably my favorite. They tell it like it is: "Smoking Kills," "Smoking Harms You and Others," "Smoking Will Harm Your Baby," and "Smoking Causes Lung Cancer." Pretty blunt...
Weather
Everyone needs something to gripe about. But Sydney's weather is certainly not one of them - especially if you're coming from a northern climate like Chicago. Sydney's winter will dip down to about 10 degrees Celcius (50 degrees F) but the spring and the fall are gorgeous and the summer keeps a tropical 80 to 90 degrees F. And do the Australians find this pleasant? "Fine." All weather reports, if there's no clouds, no rain, no wind - basically a perfect day - will report the weather as follows: "Sydney: Fine and 28."
Eftpos
"Electronic Funds Transfer Point Of Sale." Every place takes Eftpos. Basically just a debit card where you need your PIN number each time. The technology isn't anything new, but it just seems ironic how advanced parts of the economy are. Every utility (gas, electric, phone, etc.) encourages some sort of direct debit from banks or credit cards, making life a lot simpler...

Bainies Sailing4
Sailing with some Bainies on one fine Saturday afternoon in February (?). On the boat are fellow transplants Rob Cunjak, Adam Carr, Camille Crawford (Scott took the picture), Eric Berlin (at the helm), Emma (Ryan's local squeeze), Ryan Dismukes, and yours truly.
Currency
The Australian dollar. Come visit now - it was recently at its second lowest in national HISTORY when compared to the American Dollar. It has dropped more than 10% since I arrived here and is 25% lower than just back in December. Many say it's undervalued and simply getting dragged down with the Asian currencies and, well, they're right. But getting paid in American dollars is just fine by me because it's almost like getting a little raise every week. But just don't talk too much (if at all) about money - it's not really a subject Australians choose to discuss, as they - rightly so - consider it more of a private matter. And one last thing - the money's not paper. It's plastic. Literally.
VB
What people drink more than water. Technically stands for "Victoria Bitter." No one here drinks Fosters. "Australian for beer?" No. That's VB. But Fosters didn't really like that so they bought out Carlton-United Breweries which made VB a few years back. But VB to Australia is the same as Guinness to Ireland.
Friday Lunch
You can start consuming your weekend ration of VB Friday at noon. While dwindling in corporate circles, the long Friday lunch (starting at a few hours), accompanied with drinks, has been known to drift straight into the weekend for many. This is one custom I would like to fit into my schedule. ;)
Real Estate
Always in motion. Everywhere you look people are buying or selling houses, apartments, or condos. You'll get fliers in you pigeon hole (mailbox) at least once a week asking you to call an agent or attend some auction. Almost all real estate is sold through lively auctions after a few weeks of open houses. I've heard some people simply tour Sydney on Saturdays and look at all the houses for sale just for fun.

Bar w/ Scott & Camille© SS
Hanging out with Scott and Camille after a Rugby Union game in March in a local pub.

The Olympics
Sydney will be hosting the Summer 2000 Olympics in September. Although there remains over two years to go, everywhere you turn you can find Olympic merchandise, posters, advertisements, and general pride. The focus will be on Homebush Bay where the main stadium (the largest Olympic stadium ever built) and Olympic Village will be, but some other sports will be spread around the city including some at Darling Harbor and Beach Volleyball on - you guessed it - Bondi Beach!
(Quick note: Melbourne hosted the Olympics in 1956)
Food & Restaurants
The food in Sydney - Australia in general for that matter - is excellent. The seafood is abundant and extremely fresh. And, just like England, there are plenty of fish and chips shops every few blocks. (Which keeps me happy.) There are five fresh seafood shops within walking distance from my apartment and I can only think of one butcher. Oh - and chips. Another national pastime. (I could include "Pies" - meat pies to be specific - as well, but they're not everywhere like chips are.) Chips are NOT potato chips - they're the US equivalent of steak fries. And you get them served with almost every meal. Even at the finest of restaurants you'll find chips on the menu - as a side dish or as part of your main dish. (Your "entree" is the appetizer, the "main dish" is your entree.)
Restaurants in Sydney have been swamped by the multi-culturalism that defines metropolitan Australia. There is a very strong Asian influence that has meshed with the spontaneity, creativity, and freedom of the Australian chefs. A stroll down any street will bring you across a number of Thai, Indian, Chinese, Turkish, and French restaurants.
One other thing to note is due to Sydney's climate and general persuasion toward the outdoors, most restaurants and pubs have been designed with outdoor seating and removable walls in mind. It's not uncommon to be enjoying a fine meal on a great restaurant right out on the boardwalk.

BJoel3
I was able to enjoy the Billy Joel and Elton John concert at the Sydney Cricket Grounds with some fellow Bainies during another beautiful night under the Southern Cross.

Prawns on the Barbie
"Throw a shrimp on the barbie" has been labeled an Australian colloquialism. But that's not really the case. There are no shrimp here. They're all prawns. I haven't concluded if that's simply because they're from the prawn family of crustaceans or if they insist on calling them prawns because they're anything but small - the prawns I usually get to throw on the barbie may range between seven to ten inches long head-to-toe. Email me if you're interested in a really great - and simple - recipe to marinate and BBQ prawns.
The Chemist
The pharmacy or drug store. The stop for many to pick up the tins of Berocca, a highly concentrated vitamin B and C supplement to take the morning after a "big night" to ease your recovery...
A Little History
Don't know where else to put it, so I'll add it here...
1788: The British First Fleet arrives in Botany Bay with Australia's first white settlers (almost 800 convicts) under the command of Governor Arthur Phillip.
1900: Australian States are Federated; Australia announces her intention to become independent from Britain.
1915: (April 25th) Australian and New Zealand troops land at Gallipoli and battle Turkish soldiers. They never make it inland and eventually retreat on December 18th. The battle has become the symbol of Australian Pride (for they did not give up despite impossible circumstances until ordered to do so) and the annual ANZAC day represents their Veterans Day.
1986: Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain signs a proclamation while in Australia that finally clears the way for Australia's severance from the United Kingdom, expressed in the Australia Act of the same year. That same year Crocodile Dundee becomes the highest earning foreign film shown in the USA in history earning over A$180 million.
Uni
University. College. A much different phenomenon here in Australia. Most everyone goes to Uni where they live - the concept of moving away from home, let alone across the country, is a very foreign behavior. And while Uni in the US is a source of pride and definition for many, Australians treat it much more as merely a step in the education process. Maybe because it's almost free!
Mobile Phones
Everybody has them. Everyone advertises for them. Market penetration is so high when you go see a movie there's an announcement to please turn off your mobile phone. The only thing that bothers me is people will carry their phone with them at all times. You'll sit down in a meeting and the table will be covered with mobile phones. If one rings during the meeting, that person will usually actually answer it! This would be one of the few traditions I would not like to import back to the US.

 Catching a VBCatching a VB with some Bainies in the Rocks.

Public Transportation
Far more efficient, timely, cleaner, and - probably as a result - employed use of transportation than the US. It may also relate to the Sydney traffic being bloody awful. I take the bus and train every morning (and night if I get out of work before late) and can practically set my watch to the service. It's cheap and abundant. I've never waited more than five minutes for either a bus or a train during normal transportation hours. And you can't forget the Sydney Ferries, one of the world's most scenic and relaxing trips to work. Great stuff.
Click here to see a bus map (33k) of Sydney's eastern suburbs for a good pictorial of where I live (Bondi Beach) in relation to the harbor and the CBD (downtown).
A Little Culture
Just like the history, don't know where else to put it...
Movies: Australian great movies include Gallipoli (1981), Strictly Ballroom, Babe, Shine, Crocodile Dundee, Muriel's Wedding, and Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. Other movies made by Australian directors include The Piano, Portrait of a Lady, Dead Poets Society, Six Degrees of Separation, and Driving Miss Daisy.
Movie Celebs: There's more than Paul Hogan and Elle MacPherson. Nicole Kidman, Mel Gibson, Michelle Pfeiffer, and even the late Errol Flynn call Australia home.
Music: Who can forget the Bee Gees? Or Olivia Newton-John? For more current internationally known Australian music, check out INXS, Men at Work, Midnight Oil, or even AC/DC. And Kylie Minogue is sweeping the world with her... ah... musical talent.

Bondi Beach
Looking South from Bondi Beach. My apartment was on the top floor of the small white building the third from the end on the left.

My Apartment

Apartment Door© SS

Approaching the front door of my apartment building in Sydney.


Balcony View© SS
The view from my balcony overlooking Bondi to the north/northwest.

Apartment© SS
Looking up at my apartment (the bright white one) from the beach walk to Bondi.

 

Mardi Gras Parade

2

The 20th Anniversary of the Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade on February 28th. Over one million people show up for the parade. Not a lot? Considering there's less than 20 million in the entire country, you can see the parade is quite a celebration for all. It's really just another excuse to have a huge party.

cunjak.jpg (21483 bytes)

Diving with Sharks in Sydney at Oceanworld Manly
"Escorted by Oceanworld divers, you can take the plunge in our shark tank.  Come face to fin with the most diverse marine life imaginable, from the delicate to the dangerous, the mysterious to the magical."

Links to other Sydney sites of interest

Sydney Sidewalk - What's going on around Sydney
Sydney Travel Guide: A great resource!
The Official Olympic 2000 Web site
New South Wales Tourism site

Other Australian cities include:
Melbourne (Capital of Victoria); population around three million.
Canberra (Capital of Australia); population around 270k.
Adelaide (Capital of South Australia); population around one million.
Perth (Capital of Western Australia); population over one million.
Darwin (Capital of the Northern Territory); population around 70k.
Brisbane (Capital of Queensland); population over one million.
Hobart (Capital of Tasmania); population around 180k.

Sorry - I'm no longer in Sydney...  try me in Chicago!!:
*All photographs (unless otherwise noted) are the property of Stenning Schueppert and may not be distributed or circulated for any purposes (personal or commercial) without his express written consent. Questions or comments regarding selected photographs are, of course, welcome.
1: Postcard map; 2,3: Courtesy of the Sydney Morning Herald; 4: Scott Crawford photographer. Last updated January 18, 1999.

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