Paris - February 14th, 2001
Making Stenning the luckiest man alive...

"My most brilliant achievement was my ability to be able to persuade my wife to marry me."
- Winston Churchill

There are only a few things I want to do once in my life. Some of those things, therefore, I really want to make special. Getting engaged to the most special woman in the world is obviously one of those things. Heather and I met in late 1996 and quickly developed a great friendship. It wasn't until early 2000 that we transformed the friendship into a dating relationship - and clearly made the best decision of my life. While on vacation in Peru with my sister, there was something that just clicked. I had been having a wonderful time every day - no - every moment - with Heather for months. But the "aha" moment when you know it's right - when you know what you have to do - simply clicked. I always believed there wouldn't be a magical conversation, some single moment in time, some convenient point on the calendar, or some calendar-measured trigger to know when you are thrilled to spend the rest of your life with someone. I can't explain it, but I do believe it. Can you really explain true love?

I came back and kept the secret to myself. For months my sister Stephanie was the only one that had an idea. The first planning for the Paris trip started in September. I still had a big travel voucher I had won at my employer's holiday party the year prior. I called the agency and started looking into flights, hotels, etc. for a February 14th arrival into Paris. That part of the "plan" I already knew. For years I had wanted to get engaged in Paris on Valentines Day to a gorgeous intelligent woman at sunset along the banks of the Seine. Thanks to Heather, my dream - and many more since - came true. The tickets were booked by late November. So, yes, I was sitting on booked travel arrangements for months, knowing exactly what I was planning to do. (That made some conversations Heather and I had during those months very interesting and amusing from my vantage point since I was unfairly armed with the "whole" story. To take it one step further, I had really known since late August.)

A photo I took during the trip of the hotel we had booked -
the Hotel Lutetia. Great location and nice accommodations...

Other parts of the planning fell into line. I started shopping for the small token of my love (some call it an engagement ring) in early December. I had done a lot of research on the web (I'm always amazed at how much great information is available online) and talked with one friend (Thanks again to Corey Tobin) on a very confidential basis. He was planning to get married over New Year's. One other amazing fact about getting engaged is peoples' desire to help when they know. My company's CFO had family in the business that I talked to, Corey helped me out (and eventually led me to the jeweler I picked), and even my insurance agent gave me some jewelers' names.

Heather and I went to Bali (You can see the pictures and eventual journal on the Bali page in the Travel section) over New Year's and had a great time. At one point, just having fun, Valentine's Day somehow came up in conversation. I asked Heather what she wanted to do and I told her I wanted to take her to dinner. I don't remember specifics, but somehow "dinner in Paris" came up to which I simply laughed and laughed, replying with dunking her in the pool. A quick flash in time Heather doesn't remember, but one of countless smiles I enjoyed for months. We came back from Bali and I found myself hard at work. Weeks later, however, we received the great news that we would have the choice between some great Business Schools! So much going on...

Meanwhile I was eating lunch at my desk at 3pm because free lunches were spent on Jeweler's Row over on Wabash in Chicago looking at stones and talking with jewelers. Some nights after work included appointments near home, the East Bank club, or restaurants near the Sears Tower. Heather, CLEARLY not having a clue I was shopping for an engagement ring, even confronted me one evening almost in tears because I wasn't "calling any more or sending emails. And when I've asked you to lunch a few times, you've been busy." He he. Truth be told, I was very busy at work at the time. But 90% of my free time was consumed with jeweler appointments! Having problems? It couldn't have been further from the truth! :) Lunches were lurking around the East Loop hoping Heather didn't, for some reason, see me over by Jeweler's row!

I was blessed with a great jeweler - Brian Kilfoy - for Heather's ring. (Contact me if you'd like to talk to him - 100% of his business is through referral.) He's a great guy - clearly one of the guys that falls into the "artist" category, but exactly what I was looking for. He had worked in stores for years but now works for himself and sources the diamonds direct from his countless contacts. We actually designed the ring together through countless drawings, discussions, visions, and brainstorming. It is truly an original - the first of its kind. And it still is barely deserving of Heather's beauty and grace. I picked it up in mid-January once Brian had it finished. That same night I told my parents over dinner what I had planned and showed them Heather's future ring. Heather joined us half-an-hour later with no clue.

Meanwhile other things were falling into place. I had ordered the candy in early January and received it only a few days later. I had ordered it from Elmer's Candy online at www.customhearts.com if anyone reading this is interested... It sat in my office for almost a month before I took it home and hid it. I had also bought a dress for Paris at Bloomingdale's and - to save space - I won't share the story, but needless to say it was an adventure itself. I also had Heather convinced I was planning a number of events that week so she shouldn't plan too much, and I confirmed nothing she had planned for my birthday required "non-refundable" expenses because I was likely going to "have to work."

Tuesday, February 13th
When the day finally came, I went into work and rushed to get everything done. As Murphy's Law would have it, work kept me busy until noonish. I ran over to tell Matt Ellsworth the plans in person and zoomed home in a cab. I quickly packed everything for myself and for Heather, separated the bags of candy, secured Dipika to feed Moe (our fish) while we were gone, picked up flowers, and changed for the trip before zooming back downtown...

In Heather's words... With my commentary in italics.
"Just an average Tuesday. 2:30pm in my boss’s office. As I continue to lay out my "plan of action" for the remainder of the week, Stenning suddenly walks through the door. Having been in on the plot for a month, (I had called her boss Clay a month prior with the introduction "Hi Clay. We've never met but I have a huge favor to ask you that would mean the world to me. Oh yea, I'm Heather's boyfriend.") I was instructed by my team "to turn off my computer, grab my coat and purse and get out of here…everything is taken care of." I was being kidnapped from work.

Whisked away in a cab, I was told that we were off to the suburbs for dinner. (I had put all the bags in the trunk and told the cabby I'd be right back down and I'd be with a girl who wouldn't know where we were going. Heather got in the cab and babbled about work, not really knowing what to say, other than voicing concern over not having anything to wear. I kept silent.) Suddenly, the cab pulled up to O’Hare airport and emptied three full bags of luggage. Still confused and shocked, I was in for another excitement as Stenning led me into the international check-in and showed me two tickets to Paris. My eyes were flooded with tears as all I could say is "thank you" and "I can’t believe this."

Sitting at the terminal gate, Stenning pulled out a bag of heart candy that he had especially made for the occasion. The phrases "I Love Hether" (could only have 6 letters across), "HH and SS" and "Paris, Feb 14, 2001" were inscribed five different flavored hearts." (I had sorted a number of different bags earlier because I clearly didn't want her eating a "Marry Me Hether" or "She Said Yes!" too early! There was a bag I gave to Heather's bosses as we left. As a result, all Heather's coworkers knew the highlights before we were even in the cab! This could have been a screw-up on my behalf, however, because Heather later called into work to change her voice-mail, but no one left a "Congrats!" message - thanks guys! Needless to say, I got strange looks from airport security as a beautiful woman was crying next to me - again. She asked, "How many sayings are there?" "Three" I replied instantly. "That's funny, five flavors but three sayings?" "Yea, I guess..." ;)Another funny story - my mom apologized because she thought she had been spelling Heather's name wrong all this time!)

Wednesday, Valentine's Day
"Eight hours later with hardly any sleep, we landed in Paris at 7am on Valentine’s Day. We immediately dropped our bags off at this wonderful hotel and spent the day seeing the breath-taking sights of Paris."


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The Arc de Triomphe as
seen from the top of the
Eiffel Tower.

 

 

 

 


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The majestic Louvre Palace. Just off to the right you
can see part of the Pont Neuf - or "New Bridge."
Ironically, it's the oldest bridge in Paris.

 


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A few close looks at the
intricate steel skeleton of the
Eiffel Tower...

The Eiffel tower was built in Paris by Gustave Eiffel, a French engineer specialized in revolutionary steel constructions, for the 1889 world exhibition. It took only two years of work by 132 workers and 50 engineers to complete. The tower originally had no practical use. The intent was just to demonstrate the capabilities of modern engineering. A daring engineer's dream, the Eiffel tower weights 7,000 tons, but the pressure it applies on the ground is only equivalent to that of a chair with a man seated on it!

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At 300 meters, it remained the world highest building until the construction of the Chrysler building in New York city in 1929. It had nearly been demolished in 1909. It was saved by its use as a telecommunications tower. Now 320 meters high with its television ©SS
antennas, it still incredibly towers above Paris, a city almost free from skyscrapers. (By ordinance) Open air elevators or stairs bring you up to the first (57 meters high), the second (115 meters high) and the third floor (276 meters high). Each one provides different and interesting views on Paris and the surrounding Ile de France region.



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As seen from the base.

We walked up the first two levels and took the elevator up to the top (they no longer let anyone walk all the way). We were already blessed with great weather - a check of the previous forecast had called for five straight days of rain. We were fortunate to never feel a drop!

While I searched for a souvenir stand to find an "authentic" French beret with "Rusty" in yellow-cursive along the front, Heather enjoyed the views. We returned to Earth to find a Bistro (Le Bosquet, not too far from where the right picture was taken.) for lunch where we - of course - started with some wine and cheese. Heather later laughed how I made sure to order wine and cheese at every meal. Mais bien sur! Jokingly she noted, "Oh - it would have been soo perfect to propose to me at the top of the Eiffel Tower!" Totally a joke (an old inside joke), but I was the one laughing on the inside much harder, as only a few feet away in my backpack rest a little surprise.

 

We sauntered over to the Rodin museum, but got there too late to spend much time inside. The gardens look beautiful and I would recommend them to others who may be able to enjoy them during the summer months while they're in bloom... The museum houses the world's greatest collection of Rodin's sculpture and drawings like Les Bourgeois de Calais, Le Penseur (The Thinker), Balzac, La Porte de l'Enfer, Ugolini et fils are exhibited in the garden. Indoors are works in marble like Le Baiser, La Main de Dieu, La Cathédrale - those two perfectly poised. There is something particularly fascinating about those works, such as Romeo and Juliet and La Centauresse, which are only, as it were, half-created, not totally liberated from the raw block of stone.

The infamous Gates of Hell.
Spectacular...

 

Back to Heather's words: "After the Eiffel Tower, the Rodin Museum and a few other stops, Stenning requested that we head off to the Pont Neuf (the oldest bridge in Paris) and the Île de la Cité (Island of the City) by the Seine River in order to get some sunset pictures (It was coming together... months of anticipation and the sunset was going to be great!). Quite tired from being awake for more than 30 hours, I said "sure, but can we go take a nap after THIS?" (Heather quickly feel asleep on the metro. Waking her up, and clearly a little too sensitive, I asked if everything was ok about 500 times...) Being a little bit of a cranky-puss, Stenning did everything he could to keep me awake as we strolled along this island overlooking the Louvre."


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Moments before - the beginning of sunset...

"After snapping a few shots at the edge of the isle, he excused himself to reload his camera. (Whatever - I was on frame four! I also got a very funny look after I asked her to take her hair-clip out for the photos...) After a few minutes, I found him standing in front of me with a poem and a smile. I laughed and cried as he spoke about how we met, our relationship and his thoughts for the future."

 

We Both Know What’s Going On Here

Happy Valentine’s Day to my true love,
To Paris I escape with my sweet Dove,
For a loving trip I hope you will always remember,
For I confirmed these plans back in November!

Four years ago we met through Make-A-Wish,
My wish came true and she’s quite the dish!
She’s fun and she’s sexy and has got it all
I was sure never to take my eye off the ball!

We were instant friends without a doubt,
Despite my board title lacking in clout.
She was stunningly beautiful, everyone knew
And despite my shyness our friendship grew.

My gut always told me she was first rate
So I tried – too smugly – to enjoy a date.
A double date with Amy and Josh,
My subtle suggestions were simply a wash.

I never really did confront her direct
For to do so would reveal my loving intent
Weeks went by before I tried to discuss,
I heard back, however, "There is no us."

Years later I learned it was simply a movie quote –
Man! That made me feel like a dote!
No worries, I said as I tried to diffuse
The confusion I had about the friend I couldn’t loose.

Months went by as we tried to raise money
Meanwhile learning each other was smart, yet funny.
I never let her know of my little crush
Priceless moments with her were worth the hush.

Months later one night we crashed into the Golden Nugget
Having juice and pancakes as fortune would have it.
Little did I know it was then she started to think,
"Hey – maybe this guy is worth more than a blink."

The two friends began having more dinners to dilly and dally,
Each respectively playing the role of Harry and Sally.
Before too long came a surprising dilemma,
Work commitment was sending me to Australia.

I was gone nine months for a long good-bye,
As I missed my friend that saw eye-to-eye.
But soon enough back in Chicago was truly a treat,
More chances to grab my friend and a bite to eat!

After one long talk where we both shed a tear
We later had the most fun in a year!
A night of dancing and together like glue,
That gorgeous smile and shirt of deep blue.

Friends having fun and staying out late,
Earned a call from Amy, but not exactly irate.
"Did you guys have fun? Tell me the scoop!"
"Information, dear Amy, will cost you significant loot."

"Oh no – money won’t do it, Stenning my dear,
Instead throw a part and buy me a beer!"
Now I needed Heather to walk through the door
So I threw a party for one hundred and four.

It wasn’t long before my heart struck me to tell
My mind that I loved her while at Zinfandel.
‘Keep quiet you fool – don’t cast the bait
This priceless gem is worth any wait!’

Just a few days before, what could I say
When Heather asked me out on Valentine’s Day?
Stunning she was, Beauty Queen her title
Throughout Ena, The Leg Room and even the motorcycle!

For my birthday she brought a cake and a knife
To later present the gift of my life.
Constant looks at each other throughout the night
And prodding from Amy made it all right.

For Heather after the party to try as she might
To dive in and date, ending this jousting fight.
Some late dancing accompanied with a foot rub
Gave Heather the guts to go try her tug.

With the wisp of her hair and the bat of an eye
She quickly turned and jumped atop my thigh.
With few choice words yet a hint of fear,
She smiled and said, "We both know what’s going on here."

Clearly shocked and unprepared for the surprise,
I thought my bumbling would be my demise!
While nervous of loosing my true best friend,
I know I really loved this woman to no end!

Black ties, romantic dinners, and weekends away –
I never thought it could be this way!
I’ve found my soul mate, the one that I love
Sweet as candy and pure as a dove.

Our inseparable time together was never done
My life had direction – a clear number one.
Heather – you whole-heartedly complete me in every way
I don’t ever want to loose a single day.

You are priceless; I simply can’t express
How you stuck with me in my recent time of stress.
A lifetime of work – have you heard?
Has us choosing between Harvard and Stanford!

As excited I am and eager to start,
It would all mean nothing if we were apart.
I am so thankful you will be coming with me
To enjoy and experience – together – our next journey.

My Heather is so beautiful, the fairest in the land.
The power of her smile would be worth millions canned!
Those gorgeous eyes always make me melt –
The warmest feeling I have ever felt.

My Heather is so intelligent – one smart cookie
Next to her, Ad Execs are merely rookies.
Marketing, finance or politics are found at the tops
Of lists of our countless long talks.

My Heather is so fun, the best friend to have,
Constant laughter and games make me so glad.
That we found each other through the urban sea
To fill each other’s life with glee.

Completely inseparable now for some time
The two of us already share every dime.
But will she tire of me I shutter to think?
"Never, my love," she replies with a wink.

And that is my hope so deep in my heart
Anything else would leave me so dark.
Screw school, friends and the work crew –
All that matters to me is you.

I simply can’t imagine a more perfect year.
Come on – we both know what’s going on here.
I know for certain bliss is there, you see,
If you – sweet Heather – will marry me.

"Then suddenly, the last line of the poem coincided with him getting onto one knee as he said 'if you, sweet Heather, will marry me.' Going weak in the knees (and almost falling into the river), I kneeled next to him as I repeatedly said "yes" through my tears of joy. He placed a magnificent ring on my finger and then handed me a calling card to call my family and friends to share the great news. We spent the next four days exploring Paris, walking on cloud nine."

It was really entertaining - during the poem a couple was strolling by and overheard my reading the poem. The astute woman grabbed her companion and said, "Let's go - we gotta get outta here." "Hunh?" "Let's go." Later, and unfortunately right before I was almost done, another slow-moving group strolled up to where we were standing. It is, after all, public property! I slowed my reading, looked around a little, repeated myself a few times, and generally stalled until they left. If you can notice the sky in the above photo, you'll note significant time has passed between the previous photo (of the Louvre) and this next one... Heather claims it was "within minutes." Yea, right. ;)


Shortly after getting back up and heading off to the phone booth.

We finally got some calling cards to work and spent the next few hours talking with friends and family before heading off for a late dinner before some much needed rest (30+ hours awake...). We finally found an open restaurant - Cafe des Deux Magots*. Little did we know (at the time) that since its inception in 1885, Les Deux Magots has been Paris' cherished haunt for artists and writers. Named after the two wooden statues (the two magots) which still dominate the room, Les Deux Magots is one the most famous cafés in Paris. Jean-Paul Sartre and Hemingway were both patrons in an earlier era. We had a bottle of (real) champagne, a cheese plate, and some tasty - yet simple - ham and cheese sandwiches. The waiter was a friendly man, late in his years, but happy to hear we just got engaged. We kept the cork and asked if we could have a fresh placemat (each table had printed placemats with various photos, prints and writings) and he came back with fifteen or so rolled up and secured with a rubber band! The French are nice people - especially when you indulge them with a simple attempt at their language... Nonetheless, I had succeeded in keeping Heather on her toes, awake, jet-lagged and happy on a little wine - how would she feel the next morning? ;)

 

Thursday
We spent the next day (my birthday) touring Montmartre and the surrounding community. Taking the metro up there was easy so we decided to take the stairs out. Only later did we learn it's the deepest Metro stop in Paris - over 120 feet below street level. If you're in the mood for a hike, take the stairs. Otherwise, use the elevator we ignored!

 

One of only two remaining "classical" Metro entrances.
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My brother had let us borrow Frommer's "Memorable Walks in Paris" book and we enjoyed meandering through the streets...

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A window I found interesting in Montmartre.

 

Montmartre is the last "village" in Paris. (Of course I also think Saint-Germain-des-Prés is charming too.) It still keeps a very subtle and unique atmosphere in spite of the affluence of tourists from all over the world. You'll find a plethora of painters always ready to sketch you. Their roots are found near the many penniless artists who lived there a Bohemian life in the early 20th century including Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh and Picasso. Walking at random across the hill, we discovered gardens, old houses, steep streets and staircases with magnificent views.



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Sacré-Coeur

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Built on the Montmartre hill the Roman-Byzantine basilica of the Sacred Heart (Sacré-Coeur) dominates Paris. It has been constructed in devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus after the 1870 disaster, the capture of Paris by the Prussians, and the civil war which steeped the capital in blood. The archbishop of Paris in 1872 approved the wish of a Parisian, Mr. Legentil, to build a sanctuary dedicated to the heart of Jesus-Christ, "true God and real man", present in the Holy Sacrament in display day and night. Therefore he chose the site where Saint Denis was beheaded because of his faith in late IIIrd century. In 1873 the Assemblee Nationale voted a law declaring the building of public interest. The basilica's construction was financed by every parish in France. In 1875, work began. Unfortunately, with the breakout of the First World War, the consecration planned for 1914 had to be postponed until after the war. The Sacré-Coeur Catholic basilica was built at the end of the 19th century. It has become one of Paris' treasured landmarks as it dominates the skyline throughout the city...

The basilica is built on a vast scale to take full advantage of its commanding site. The architect Abadie was inspired by the Romano-Byzantine style. The domes, elongated into ovoid forms, the 80-metre bell-tower from which the 19-tons Savoyarde bell can be heard, the whiteness of this monument which overlooks the whole of Paris, henceforth makes it one of the major landmarks of the Paris scenery. The building's extraordinary whiteness is a result of the material used in its construction: Chateau-Landon stone bleaches with age.

We spent much of the early afternoon at a local Bistro talking about my past few months (I had, after all, kept a lot secret!). We talked about the planning, shopping, funny moments, etc. It felt so great to finally share everything with my best friend... and now my fiancée!



Heather took these from our hike up the tower. If you look closely, you can faintly see the Eiffel Tower in the distance (back to the left) in the Gargoyle photo.

 

 

 

That night we had made reservations at a fantastic restaurant - LE VIOLON D'INGRES - a strong recommendation if you're planning a trip. The day before (upon arrival) I asked the concierge to try booking us at fine restaurants each night we were there. I had printed a list from Zagat's of the top restaurants and top romantic spots. He gave me one of those "Are you crazy?" looks and said "These are the best restaurants in the city!" "Yes, any time would be appreciated." "I'll see what we can do." They found us some great spots, the highlight of which was definitely Le Violon D'Ingres.

As Fodors notes, "Christian Constant, former head chef of the Hôtel Crillon, created a hit with his own well-heeled bistro in one of the quieter but most fashionable parts of the city. A suit-clad crowd comes to sample the regularly revised menu, which may include such dishes as cream of pumpkin soup with sheep's cheese, risotto with boned chicken wings, and guinea hen on a bed of diced turnips. Reservations essential." Zagats notes "Christian Constant (ex Crillon Hôtel) has 'reached a good cruising speed' at his 'elegant' French in the 7th, turning out 'inventive', 'refined' fare that shows his 'love and enthusiasm for food'; while that's not a unanimous view -- critics call it 'overrated' and cite 'pricey' wines and 'so-so' decor -- most consider it a 'high-class' 'value', with extra praise for the 'warm, professional service' and 'superb' tasting menu."


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In any case, we found the food - and wine - magnificent. The restaurant, located near the Eiffel Tower, made it possible for Heather and I to stroll over for a late-evening glimpse. I don't know exactly how long they'll last, but the French installed thousands of individual lights all over the Eiffel Tower for the Millennium. Each night on (I think) twenty-minute intervals for a few hours the tower sparkles in all its glory. It's beautiful...

 

 

 

 

 

Friday
The next day we toured the Île de la Cité with our first stop at Sainte-Chapelle. The Gothic chapel was built in Paris in 1246 during the Middle Ages by Saint Louis, the king of France, to contain what he believed to be the Crown of Thorns from Christ's crucifixion and fragments of the True Cross. The crown was bought from Constantinople (Now Istanbul in Turkey) at a time when many European nobles fought in the middle-east to get back Jerusalem from the Muslims. The high chapel with its 600 sq. meters of windows, 2/3 of which are authentic, offer one of the most complete sets of stained glass window from this era. The King constructed the chapel as a monumental reliquary for this prize. Each panel of the stained glass windows tells a story (read from left to right, top to bottom). Most of them represent the Old Testament, while the three at the back tell the story of John the Evangelist, Jesus' Crucifixion and John the Baptist. The one on your right as you enter is the story of the relics coming to the Chapel and the rose window over the door is the Apocalypse.

A short walk brought us to Nortre Dame. (I always ask people who went to school in South Bend - "Where did you go to college?" "Oh - and what's the name of the church in Paris?" "Oh. You're a doofus. Go play football.") Anyway...

Under the auspices of Bishop de Sully, the construction on the church began in 1160 and was completed around 1345 - that's right - two centuries! During the construction many events occurred such as in 1297, the King Louis IX was canonized as St. Louis, and in 1304, Philip the Fair celebrated his military victory by riding his horse up and down the aisles in the Notre Dame. By the 17th century, it was very fashionable to loathe the Notre Dame.

In the eighteenth century, a lot of the medieval glass was removed simply to make the building lighter, and medieval fittings and furniture were often replaced by those in later styles. However, it was not until the French Revolution in 1793, when the Parisians took a disliking to anything that was "royal" that they destroyed the statues and stripped all "anti-republican" art from inside as well as outside. And, in the following year, the French revolutionary government outlawed religion and Notre Dame was officially renamed as the Temple of Reason. Yet, it was in 1802, when Napoleon ruled France that he reintroduced Catholicism with a solemn ceremony in the newly re-Christened cathedral. Here is where he crowned himself emperor.

Notre-Dame is now viewed as one of the key defining examples of the style which was to become known as Ile-de-France Gothic, by the early nineteenth century few Parisians valued their medieval past very highly. Interest in the medieval building was largely rekindled by Victor Hugo's novel Notre-Dame de Paris. For twenty years, Viollet-le-Duc worked at Notre-Dame, adding the spire, consolidating the fabric and replacing missing or defaced sculptures.

Heather wanted to return to the spot where we got engaged - the Square du Vert Galant.The tiny but pretty park at the extreme western end of the Île de la Cité is called the square du Vert Galant (Vert Galant was a nickname for Henri IV, who had a reputation for many love affairs). It was created about the same time as place Dauphine. It is about as close to the river as you can get without actually being in it; the square is at the level of the Ile de la Cité during the Gallo-Roman Period, about 23 feet lower than it is now. The point is a public garden known for its "romantic charm" and is often the setting for films. Many claim the sunset "seen from this spot is magnificent." I would have to agree.

On our way over there we stopped in the Taverne Henry IV (13 Place Du Pont Neuf), a tiny bar/restaurant recommended by the Memorable Walks in Paris book for its "armoas of freshly baked pies and strong cheeses." I highlight it not because it's one of Paris' famous landmarks, but is a great sense of the "other" Paris. They offer over thirty wines by the glass and another thirty or so off a menu posted on the wall. We also enjoyed a healthy cheese plate with pate and bread for extremely reasonable prices. The character of the joint was the real treat. The owners, two old cranky Frenchmen, were worth the visit. They reminded me of a French version of the Odd Couple if they ran a bar.

We ended the day with another great dinner at Restaurant Jacques Cagna. Very friendly chef - he had spent a few years in Chicago working for a restaurant or hotel here... We (of course) had the Menu Degustation which was an excellent meal but couldn't compare to the previous evening. We strolled home through Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the way home.

 

Saturday
We planned to spend the next day in the Louvre - something Heather had mentioned months earlier (but after I knew it could come true). She said she wanted to return to Paris "someday" to "just spend a whole day in the Louvre and not be rushed..." So, as I hope to do for the rest of my life, I did everything I could to make sure my baby's wishes came true....

The Louvre is one of the - if not the - greatest art collections in the world. The core collection was formed by François 1, and added to by Henri II and Catherine de Medicis. The Old Master collection was developed by Louis XIV and important Spanish and Dutch works acquired by Louis XVI. Most painting lovers come to view the exceptional collection of European paintings which range from 1400 to 1900. The Grand Gallery running along the south of the building is a stupendous piece of design which showed the world what a picture gallery should look like. Pierced by large windows, its walls are hung with some of the finest works of the Italian Renaissance. On this level is also the Spanish collection and the large scale nineteenth-century French paintings. On the upper level artists from northem Europe are well represented, along with earlier paintings from the French school.

Heather enjoying some sculpture late in the day...

The Louvre was built by Philippe Auguste in 1204 and was originally the royal château and later transformed by Charles V between 1364 and 1380 and was entirely rebuilt from the time of François I to the 19th century. Once a palace of French kings and princes, the Louvre is today the Palace of Arts and holds one of the richest museums in the world. Its collection, which ranges from Egyptian art of 5000 BC to nineteenth-century work, is divided into seven departments: Oriental and Islamic Antiquities; Egyptian Antiquities; Greek, Roman and Etruscan Antiquities; Painting; Sculpture; Decorative Arts; and Graphic Arts.

That night we had tickets to see Le Lido - the classic Parisian Cabaret and the "Most Famous Night-Club in the World." I had packed my tux for the occasion and gave Heather another surprise - a great dress I had bought for her from Bloomingdale's. She looked simply stunning. My fiancée - still gorgeous and beaming from the surprise trip. We stopped for a few quick photos by the Arc de Triomphe.

In 1758, after several plans were drawn up, Napoleon Bonaparte built a monument for the glorification of his Grande Armée, a triumphal arch in classical style - the Arc de Triomphe. The Arch was finished for the inauguration in 1836, during the reign of Louis Philippe. However, the rest of the "Place de L'Etoile" was not finished until 1854.

The Arc de Triomphe and its massive piers are decorated with bas reliefs depicting scenes from the revolutionary era (including the First Empire). To the right on the side facing the Champs-Elysees is the Marseillaise by Rude (the departure of the volunteers to the front in 1792); to the left is Napoleon's Triumph of 1810 by Cortot. The resistance of 1814 and the Peace of 1815 are on the other side, modestly facing away from the city.


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C'est Magique! (the show currently on at Le Lido) opened with the appearance of an "Enchantress" who sprung from a hat, before amazing panther-girls circled above the audience... In the opening "tableau," itself named C'est Magique, music, costumes and dances swept us into a whirlwind… Next came Casino - to be frank, this part was a little cheesy but nonetheless entertaining. The dancing, music, and lighting was incredible – a non-stop spectacle! The third tableau took us to an enchanted wold of Oriental Illusions, in which the effects change with breathtaking speed. A specially created giant video game became reality, with the appearance of a horse, itself transformed into a fantastic creature, in the midst of the fantasy characters and stuntmen. An aerial ballet then took place above our heads. There are dancers dressed in water in a setting of fountains. The fourth tableau paid homage to the Magic World of Show Business: from Broadway to Gershwin via Duke Ellington. Skaters danced on real ice. A grand staircase unfolded before our eyes with gigantic projected images, a multitude of costumes, dances, and music, including arrangements of famous classics. It was definitely entertaining and I recommend it for those who have both the time and the appetite.

 

Sunday
We woke up early and traveled North to the weekend Flea Market. We enjoyed walking through the narrow streets and alleys looking for souvenirs and antiques, as Heather was searching for a "classic" artisan print. We had asked for a few of the "originals," only to discover those are (a) near impossible to find, (b) only in auctions, and (c) thousands of dollars. We did stumble across a few we liked, but were rushed back to the hotel to catch our flight home. We're still looking and will have to keep our eye open next time we're over there...

A long flight back brought us to Washington for a short lay-over. The customs agent (aka the first person on American soil) complemented Heather's new addition and received the biggest smile in return. That smile - priceless - is worth everything...

All photographs (unless otherwise noted) throughout the web-site are the personal property of Stenning Schueppert and may not be distributed or circulated for any purposes (personal or commercial) without his express written consent. Questions or comments regarding selected photographs are, of course, welcome.
Completed April 26, 2001; updated May 8; V2.8. Photo of 1340 N. Dearborn, Heather's old condo, from Rubloff Properties. *Photo of Deux Magots and some information and facts courtesy of various Parisian travel sites...

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